How do I apply lead foil?
Preparation
First prepare all surfaces to be covered with lead foil. This may include filling sanding, and sizing to ensure a smooth finished surface free from lumps or hollows. Size is a diluted version of the glue you choose to use. Traditionally this was animal glue, but alternatively a PVA water soluble glue can be used. The purpose of size is to allow the final gluing with a thinner film of glue and allow a longer working time.
Before applying lead foil
Remember that lead foil is toxic so wear gloves. This lead foil has a thin film of oil, which should be washed off and dried before applying to wood or patinating. Pushing lead foil into corners will require very smooth shaped tools made from fine grain hardwood. These can be square ended, skew chisel, knife shaped or any other shape as required. When measuring lead foil allow 3/16" (5mm) at the top edges for finishing neatly later.

First apply lead foil to the inside front of the caddy. The back is second. Both front and back have an overlap of approx 3/16" (5mm) at the sides and bottom. Small V sections should be cut out in the corners to allow a neat corner. If animal glue is used a hot air gun will warm the wood and lead before applying the glue. If the glue starts to chill then it can be softened with warming. Apply glue to the inside front of the box and fit the lead using the wooden tools to push it into place. Repeat on the back. Both sides are fitted next without an overlap onto front or back, just on the base. Mitre corners. The base is fitted last without overlaps. The lid follows cut oversize. Trim with a sharp knife when dry.

Lead patination acid - 13% nitric acid
Use a plastic or glass brush. Apply with a circular motion, rubbing on for several minutes. Wash off with a plentiful supply of water. Leave overnight. Seal by gently applying a beeswax & turpentine mixture. This is the traditional method but microcrystalline wax is even better. Buff with a soft cloth. Warning - even dilute nitric acid dissolves ivory.
How do I apply velvet to writing slopes?
Prepare the surface to be covered as for lead foil instructions, to achieve a smooth surface. Use a traditional starch wallpaper glue, sprinkling rapidly into water until it is almost snowball consistency. Leave for a few hours until it dissolves completely.

Deeply score the boundary edge with a sharp knife. Spread the glue on the wooden surface thinly with a spatula, forcing it into the wood. Leave for a day to dry. Check that the knife cut edge isn't filled with glue. Determine the finished velvet nap direction preferred. Then cut to size allowing approx 3/4" overlap all round. Glue velvet into position. With a sharp knife or scalpel run the velvet into the scored boundary edge. This should cut the velvet to size and any ragged edges should curl down into the cut. At this stage the velvet can still be stretched to neaten any wobbly cut. Leave to dry before closing the box.

How do I apply paper?

• Prepare the wood surfaces as for lead foil so they are smooth.
• Size with a slightly diluted glue of the type which you will use to stick the paper. Leave overnight and then sand smooth again.
• Measure all surfaces to be covered accurately and cut out paper allowing approx ¼" seams and 3/16" (5mm) proud at the top for finishing. Mitre all corners for neatness.
• Use cow gum, PVA or dry mount to apply. The best glue is the traditional starch wallpaper paste. Mix it to a snowball consisitency by rapidly sprinkling the powder into the water. Leave it for a few hours to dissolve completely. Apply well with a spatula.
• Work around the surfaces, pressing paper into place using the wooden tools, a smooth ruler or similar.
• Leave the bottom of the compartments till last.
• Trim with a very sharp knife after the glue has dried completely.
• Recover with a well earned cup of tea - this is a laborious process!

How do I cut and work mother of pearl?
The name mother of pearl is usually used as a blanket term to cover a range of iridescent shells. Their working properties are variable, but it's easiest to regard them as related to flaky glass. The hard part is to convert curved shell into a flat sheet. This is almost impossible without a lapidary machine to grind it, so it is essential to buy sheet cut to the appropriate thickness. Use a wet stone grinder to thin further and to shape the shell. Caution - some shells are highly toxic. Wear rubber gloves and change the water frequently. If cutting dry, still wear rubber gloves and also use dust masks extractors etc.

When cutting an escutcheon or other pierced shape, start with the hole. Use a newly sharpened drill bit. A fret saw or needle file (preferably diamond) can cut intricate shapes. To shape the thin shell roughly on the outside use side cutting snips - the type where the blades meet edge to edge, not with a scissor action. Final shaping is best done with a wet stone grinder or file, cutting along the edge rather than across it. Other useful tools include a mini die grinder with a range of tungsten carbide and diamond wheels, and a fine slitting saw. Polishing is done with a range of wet and dry papers (use wet) followed by finely powdered chalk on a wet paper towel.

A dry paper towel removes the final smears. Microcrystalline wax is best for the final shine.